Left-Handed Available Too!

DIVNICK™ Operating Instructions

(This is an expanded copy of the printed instructions that are included with each club.)

CONGRATULATIONS! The DIVNICK™ is the most innovative golf club in 50 years. It combines the latest golf club physics (perimeter weighting, progressive offset shaft alignment, low center of gravity and extra-large sweet spot) with over 34 loft options using a unique vernier transmission hidden in the club. You can select from several putters, drivers, all the irons, multiple wedges, and even half lofts. The locking lever needs only to be finger-tight and requires no separate clumsy leverage tool. Simply stated, there has never before been anything like the DIVNICK™! We know you will enjoy it for years to come.

This page has three sections:

  • Playing Instructions
  • Maintenance
  • Performance Topics

To ensure your enjoyment, please read all the directions, warnings, and usage strategy and keep these instructions in the bag for reference. We recommend that you practice adjusting the lofts at home before playing. Then spend a little time at the driving range (off real grass rather than mats if possible). You will learn the distance of each loft and discover which loft gives you the best distance. It may surprise you that it will not be the "D" as discussed later in these directions.

LEFTIES: These instructions are pictured and described for right handed players. Lefties will be the opposite, except where noted in the loft-adjusting section.

PLAYING INSTRUCTIONS

TO EXTEND THE SHAFT, hold as shown above and twist and pull until loose from the shaft socket, then swiftly pull the ends apart so that the shaft "snap-locks" into its fully-extended position. It will not lock if opened slowly with strength. It must be "snapped" open. If you can twist it loose, it needs to be re-extended...probably with more of a snappy motion.

If your shaft does not lock when you extend it in this way or if it ever turns on contact while hitting a ball, you may need to accelerate the metal-to-metal break in by doing the following.

Extend it slowly so that the joints do NOT lock. With your left hand on the head and your right hand on the grip, twist it back and forth while pulling it apart as strongly as possible. As you twist it back and forth, grinding the metal against metal, after about 10 to 20 twists it will begin to feel more and more rough, and you will hear it start to screech. That is a good thing. As soon as you feel and hear that, then re-extend it by snapping it open so it locks. Then try breaking the joints loose by twisting it in opposite directions. This will probably release the other overlapping section, so you will need to repeat the back-and-forth twisting and re-extending until you can't twist it loose.

By the way, while you have it fully extended and you are twisting it back and forth while pulling it apart, it will really give your shoulders a work out. Please let us know if you need any instruction over the phone while doing this. (1-937-384-0003, same as New York time zone)

CAUTION: WHEN COLLAPSING, KEEP YOUR HANDS ON THE GRIP AND HEAD. DO NOT HOLD THE SHAFT BELOW THE HEAD WHICH MAY CAUSE PINCHING WHEN IT COLLAPSES.

TO COLLAPSE THE SHAFT, hold the head with your thumb and forefinger as shown with the toe of the club pointing away from you. DO NOT hold it with the toe in the heel of your hand as if it were a cane. Make sure your fingers are NOT touching the shaft as that can pinch them.

Also, notice in the picture that I am holding the head at the top of the SHAFT rather than on the main part of the head. This is very important so that the impact force is straight down into the shaft. If you hold the main part of the head, the force is off-line from the shaft and that imparts a sideways impact on the shaft which significantly reduces the necessary impact force.

Strike the grip-end of the shaft on smooth hard concrete STRAIGHT DOWN. The harder and smoother the surface, the better. Do not attempt to collapse the shaft on grass, wood, tile, or carpeted floors. Concrete is MUCH harder and better than asphalt. The impact from the concrete transferes directly into the shaft through our proprietary stainless steel collapsing cap which is pressed onto the end of the shaft.

A swift "wristy" action is required. Power and muscle does not work, so don't hold the head and grip with a "full hand," grip it lightly with your fingers and thumb as shown.

Notice in the picture above that I am bending over a little so that my forearm is more perpendicular to the shaft. This promotes a straight-down motion. Your elbow needs to be at the same level as the head of the club. You don't want to strike the ground at an angle.

After the first joint releases, keep your hands on the extreme ends to avoid pinching, and 1) Lift the half-collapsed club about a foot in the air and 2) Strike the grip end onto concrete again until the second joint releases.

The second joint is sometimes stubborn and may require several strikes. The "secret" is to make a swift and loose wristy snap straight down. Don't worry about hurting the club. Just make sure you avoid getting your fingers pinched.

It's much easier to do this on one knee rather than bending over. Being on a knee promotes a straight-down motion while bending over at the waist tends to cause a sideways impact.

Notice that I am still holding the head with thumb and forefinger, with the other fingers away from the shaft. A light grip promotes a wristy action, and you want your fingers safely away from the shaft to avoid pinching.

 

In rare circumstances, the shaft may be difficult to collapse, especially if it is stored in its extended position, which we do not recommend. In almost all cases, it is because of improper technique…holding the club too tightly and not snapping it into concrete swiftly enough. However, sometimes it may be necessary to apply heat to the outer section to expand it, then immediately re-striking it onto concrete before the inner section has a chance to get warm. You can heat it with a boiling cup of water, or with a heat gun...the kind used to remove wall paper. Then immediately try to collapse it on a concrete surface using the above technique.

Adjusting the Loft

Lefties, see the asterisks* and corresponding explanation at the bottom of this section.

To adjust the loft , hold the club head in your left hand with the shaft tucked under your right arm. Be sure to look straight down on the marks as illustrated with the arrow. Do not view from an angle. Unscrew the locking lever (counter clockwise-indicated by white arrow) with your right hand 1 full turn so that the transmission can "shift" both ways. Rotate the head first one way until it clicks, then the other way until it clicks again. Each PAIR of back-and-forth clicks automatically ADVANCES* the head ½ loft (an almost imperceptible 2 degrees) no matter which way you click first. Ratchet back and forth until the index arrow on the head points to the desired loft, then re-tighten the nut (clockwise).

CAUTION: While playing, do not unscrew the lever more than one turn in order to avoid losing parts in the grass. Make sure the lever is tight during storage.

It is very quick and easy to "speed shift". Grossly rotate the index arrow on the head so it is on or under* the desired loft mark, and then ratchet in pairs of back-and-forth shifts to a perfect alignment.

When adjusting to the P (Putter) from a steeper loft that you have used to reach the green, grossly ratchet down to the P. Depending on the loft you last used, it might ratchet straight to the P. But more than likely, it will be below or above it. Ratchet BELOW* the P, then advance it in pairs of back-and-forth clicks until the main index arrow is lined up exactly with the P mark.

That is the same technique used to adjust for every loft. Rathet directly to the desired position or below* it...then fine tune the adjustment by ratcheting up* to it in pairs of back-and-forth clicks.

The index lines are odd numbered clubs as marked, and the middle of the spaces between the lines are even clubs (2,4,6,8, and pitching wedge) - all traditional loft angles. Half-lofts are just above or below the lines as illustrated below.

The DIVNICK™ offers the ultimate in fine-tuning your game. Not only does it provide half lofts for those "in between" distances, you have several wedge options including the standard pitching and sand angles on up to super wedges far beyond the last index mark. You will notice that we have two sand wedge marks. The first "S" is a standard 52-degree loft, the second is a 60-degree super wedge with 3 lofts in between. You can even lock it well above the second S mark, at 62, 64, 66, 68, or 70 degrees. If you go much higher, the angle of the blade is so steep that you might take a swing and slide under the ball without moving it...which is actually a pretty cool trick. Click here to see a full list of the degrees for each loft setting.

Click here to see a 10-second movie of how simple it is to adjust. (This is a large file size, so it will take several minutes if you are on dial up.)

*Lefties: The transmission for our left-handed club is exactly the opposite of the right-handed transmission. In other words, it DECREASES 1/2 loft with every pair of clicks. So you would adjust it by grossly clicking directly to the desired loft or just ABOVE it, then ratchet back and forth until it comes DOWN to the desired loft.

HOW TIGHT? Tighten the lever "snugly" so that the transmission locks securely. However, it does not require excessive force. Normal tightening is enough to hold for one hit since you usually change lofts for each subsequent hit. Since you are only using finger-tight pressure, repeated hits such as at a practice range will loosen the lever so you should check and retighten it after each shot while on the range. Lubricate the nut and washer between uses.

MAINTENANCE

LEVER ALIGNMENT: The lever is factory-aligned so that when tight, it is approximately parallel to, or slightly in front of the face of the club as shown. It does not necessarily align with the shaft which varies with the loft positions.

After you use the club for a while and the transmission and threads break in, the parts fit closer and closer together, and the lever alignment will progress beyond parallel. You will want to re-set the lever as follows.

Unscrew the lever one or two turns which will open up a little gap between the hosel and the lever (1) so you can fit a screw-driver blade in between. Notice that the left side of the screw driver blade (2) is against the hosel, and the right side (3) is against the thickest part of the lever. In this position, twist the screw-driver counter-clockwise to pry the lever about half-way off the nut as shown. With the lever still partly on the nut, screw it back to a snug position. Then pull the lever off the rest of the way by wiggling it back and forth as you pull it off. Then push it back on, realigned parallel to the face, or pointing slightly forward of the face. Pushing it back on is done by hand. No hammer or other force is needed. In most cases, depending on how much you use your club, you will need to realign the lever more than once as the stainless steel teeth and threads "polish" and fit closer and closer together.

LUBRICATION: You do not need to lubricate (oil) the transmission unless you clean it (next section), but you do need to lubricate the threads and spring washer area between every round. We recommend any light oil or spray lubricant such as WD-40. Unscrew the lever 2 to 3 turns and spray or drip oil into the thread and washer area. HINT: If you forgot to oil it between rounds and you notice the lever being difficult to loosen while playing, you can temporarily lubricate it with sun tan lotion, Vaseline, or even chap stick. That works great until you can get back home where you can lubricate it with oil. Be very careful not to take the club apart over grass or any place where you can lose the parts.

WASHING: Typically, you do not need to wash the transmission. Because the gears pass over each other, it is self-cleaning. Even sand and grit naturally falls out of the transmission. However, if you want to clean it, you can unscrew the locking lever and separate the transmission. Be sure to do this over a towel or table so you don't accidentally drop the parts. Rinse off the parts with soap and water. Let them dry completely. Lubricate all the moving parts with any light oil or spray.

GRIP MAINTENANCE: The custom grips allow you to wash them with soap and water to maintain the tacky feel. Be careful not to get water inside the shaft sections.

IF THE CLUB IS WET from rain or washing, towel-dry it and spray some lubricant on the internal parts including into the loosened shaft joints, and store it in a LOOSENED position so the internal shaft areas can "breath" and dry.

PARTS AND ASSEMBLY: There are six parts to the head assembly as shown below. The Ring Gear will only fit onto the head with the teeth meshing one way. The teeth on the other side of the ring gear mesh with the teeth inside the Hosel. Please notice that the spring washer fits with the edges bent "toward" the hosel. The lever is formed like a tight-fitting "socket wrench" to allow it to be adjusted as described above. It simply "presses" tightly onto the nut.

REPLACEMENT PARTS: If you ever need to replace the washer, nut, or lever, please contact us by email or call 1-937-384-0003 (Eastern USA). The head, ring gear, and hosel or cast in a family mold, so are not available separately. HINT: Be very careful if you disassemble the head that you don't lose any of these critical parts. If you want to replace the nut locally, it is a 5/16 x 24 thread grade 8 nut which you can find in most hardware stores. If you keep it lubricated, it will last permanently.

PERFORMANCE TOPICS

LIE ANGLE: You will notice that the toe of the DIVNICK™ is up a little for your full-length shots and the heel is up when putting. This is because of the 64-degree lie angle which is an average of irons and putter.

DRIVING: The main aspect of a driver which yields distance is its length which translates into club-head speed at the point of impact. Therefore, assuming optimum swing timing and sweet-spot contact, it is impossible for the DIVNICK™ to drive the ball as far as a conventional driver because it is not as long, as discussed in the Disadvantages section. But because it's the same length for every swing, many golfers will be able to "groove" their swing and might find that their drives are more consistently down the middle of the fairway with longer average distance. Because the 38" DIVNICK™ is the length of a 4 iron, you will get maximum length performance out of the 3 or 4 iron setting, not the driver. Given the physics of the shaft, the "D" position will not hit the ball farther, only lower, and it will be very difficult to get the ball up. Tee the ball as you would for an iron tee shot regardless of the loft selection.

Since the 38" DIVNICK™ is the length of a conventional 4-iron, when set to lofts above that, it will hit the ball farther than normal. This allows you to go to a steeper loft which will result in a higher trajectory and allow the ball to stop or back up more effectively, or you can choke down on the grip and simulate your club's lengths if you wish.

PUTTING: The other extreme, in terms of club-length and head shape, is putting. To approximate your normal putting stance, we simply suggest that you "choke down" on the grip, perhaps with your right hand down on the shaft a little. Use the two white sighting lines for assistance in alignment.

TELESCOPIC DRIVER AND PUTTER: Since the driver and putter are the two extremes of length, head shape and weight, if you want to carry those clubs but require portability for travel and convenience, please contact us about our custom collapsible drivers and putters. Click here for telescopic driver and putter options and pictures.

SHAFT LENGTHS: We produce two standard lengths: The 38" and the 37" which is recommended for players less than 5'8" tall. After addressing the ball and taking a few swings, if you wish you had the other length, you may send your shaft back to us and ask for the other length. This offer presumes that the shaft and hosel socket is not scratched or otherwise unfit for resale.

LIFETIME WARRANTEE
Your absolute satisfaction is guaranteed. You may return your DIVNICK™ for any reason at any time. The DIVNICK™ also carries a lifetime warrantee against breakage. If it ever breaks, we'll fix it. No charge.

CONTACT INFORMATION:
Divnick International, Inc.
321 Alexandersville Road
Miamisburg, OH 45342
Appointment Only
Voice: 937-384-0003
Fax: 937-384-0004

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