DIVNICK™ Operating Instructions

(This is an expanded copy of the printed instructions that are included with each club.)

CONGRATULATIONS! The DIVNICK™ is the most innovative golf club in 50 years. It combines the latest golf club physics (perimeter weighting, progressive offset shaft alignment, low center of gravity and extra-large sweet spot) with over 34 loft options using a unique vernier transmission hidden in the club. You can select from several putters, drivers, all the irons, multiple wedges, and even half lofts. The locking lever needs only to be finger-tight and requires no separate clumsy leverage tool. Simply stated, there has never before been anything like the DIVNICK™! We know you'll enjoy it for years to come.

To ensure your enjoyment, please read all the directions, warnings, and usage strategy and keep these instructions in the bag for reference. We recommend that you practice adjusting the lofts at home before playing. Then spend a little time at the driving range (off real grass rather than mats if possible). You will learn the distance of each loft and discover which loft gives you the best distance. It may surprise you that it will not be the "D" as discussed later in these directions.

TO EXTEND THE SHAFT, hold as shown above and twist and pull until loose from the shaft socket, then swiftly pull the ends apart so that the shaft "snap-locks" into its fully-extended position. It will not lock if opened slowly with strength. It must be "snapped" open. If you can twist it loose, it needs to be re-extended...probably with more of a snappy motion.

If your shaft does not lock when you extend it in this way or if it ever turns on contact while hitting a ball, you may need to accelerate the metal-to-metal break in by doing the following.

Extend it slowly so that the joints do NOT lock. With your left hand on the head and your right hand on the grip, twist it back and forth while pulling it apart as strongly as possible. As you twist it back and forth, grinding the metal against metal, after about 10 to 20 twists it will begin to feel more and more rough, and you will hear it start to screech. That is a good thing. As soon as you feel and hear that, then re-extend it by snapping it open so it locks. Then try breaking the joints loose by twisting it in opposite directions. This will probably release the other overlapping section, so you will need to repeat the back-and-forth twisting and re-extending until you can't twist it loose.

By the way, while you have it fully extended and you are twisting it back and forth while pulling it apart, it will really give your shoulders a work out. Please let us know if you need any instruction over the phone while doing this. (1-937-384-0003, same as New York time zone)

CAUTION: WHEN COLLAPSING, KEEP YOUR HANDS ON THE GRIP AND HEAD. DO NOT HOLD THE SHAFT BELOW THE HEAD WHICH MAY CAUSE PINCHING WHEN IT COLLAPSES.

TO COLLAPSE THE SHAFT, hold the head with your thumb and forefinger as shown with the toe of the club pointing away from you. DO NOT hold it with the toe in the heel of your hand as if it were a cane. Make sure your fingers are NOT touching the shaft as that can pinch them.

Also, notice in the picture that I am holding the head at the top of the SHAFT rather than on the main part of the head. This is very important so that the impact force is straight down into the shaft. If you hold the main part of the head, the force is off-line from the shaft and that imparts a sideways impact on the shaft which significantly reduces the necessary impact force.

Strike the grip-end of the shaft on smooth hard concrete STRAIGHT DOWN. The harder and smoother the surface, the better. Do not attempt to collapse the shaft on grass, wood, tile, or carpeted floors. Concrete is MUCH harder and better than asphault.

A swift "wristy" action is required. Power and muscle does not work, so don't hold the head and grip with a "full hand," grip it lightly with your fingers and thumb as shown.

Notice in the picture above that I am bending over a little so that my forearm is more perpendicular to the shaft. This promotes a straight-down motion. Your elbow needs to be at the same level as the head of the club. You don't want to strike the ground at an angle.

After the first joint releases, keep your hands on the extreme ends to avoid pinching, and 1) Lift the half-collapsed club about a foot in the air and 2) Strike the grip end onto concrete again until the second joint releases.

The second joint is sometimes stubborn and may require several strikes. The "secret" is to make a swift and loose wristy snap straight down. Don't worry about hurting the club. Just make sure you avoid getting your fingers pinched.

It's much easier to do this on one knee rather than bending over. Being on a knee promotes a straight-down motion while bending over at the waiste tends to cause a sideways impact.

Notice that I am still holding the head with thumb and forefinger, with the other fingers away from the shaft. A light grip promotes a wristy action, and you want your fingers safely away from the shaft to avoid pinching.

 

In rare circumstances, the shaft may be difficult to collapse, especially if it is stored in its extended position, which we do not recommend. In almost all cases, it is because of improper technique…holding the club too tightly and not snapping it into concrete swiftly enough. However, sometimes it may be necessary to apply heat to the outer section to expand it, then immediately re-striking it onto concrete before the inner section has a chance to get warm. You can heat it with a boiling cup of water, or with a heat gun...the kind used to remove wall paper. Then immediately try to collapse it on a concrete surface using the above technique.

Adjusting the Loft

CAUTION: While playing, do not unscrew the lever more than one turn in order to avoid losing parts in the grass. Make sure the lever is tight during storage.

To adjust the loft , hold the club head in your left hand with the shaft tucked under your right arm. Be sure to look straight down on the marks as illustrated with the arrow. Do not view from an angle. Unscrew the locking lever (counter clockwise) with your right hand 1 full turn so that the transmission can "shift" both ways. Rotate the head first one way until it clicks, then the other until it clicks again. Each PAIR of back-and-forth clicks automatically ADVANCES the head ½ loft (an almost imperceptible 2 degrees) no matter which way you click first. Ratchet back and forth until the index arrow on the head points to the desired loft and re-tighten the nut (clockwise).

It is very quick and easy to "speed shift". Grossly rotate the index arrow on the head so it is on or under the desired loft mark, and then ratchet in pairs of shifts to a perfect alignment.

When adjusting to the P (Putter) from a steeper loft that you have used to reach the green, grossly ratchet down to the P. Depending on the loft you last used, it might ratchet straight to the P. But more than likely, it will be below or above it. Ratchet BELOW the P, then advance it in pairs of back-and-forth clicks until the main index arrow is lined up exactly with the P mark.

That is the same technique used to adjust it for every loft. You want to be directly opposite the desired loft or below it...then fine tune the adjustment by ratcheting up to it in pairs of back-and-forth clicks.

The index lines are odd numbered clubs as marked, and the middle of the spaces between the lines are even clubs (2,4,6,8, and pitching wedge) - all traditional loft angles. Half-lofts are just above or below the lines as illustrated below.

The DIVNICK™ offers the ultimate in fine-tuning your game. Not only does it provide half lofts for those "in between" distances, you have several wedge options including the standard pitching and sand angles on up to super wedges far beyond the last index mark. You will notice that we have two sand wedge marks. The first is a standard 52-degree loft, the second is a 60-degree super wedge with 3 lofts in between.

Click here to see a 10-second movie of how simple it is to adjust. (This is a large file size, so it will take several minutes if you are on dial up.)

HOW TIGHT? Tighten the lever "snugly" so that the transmission locks securely. However, it does not require excessive force. Normal tightening is enough to hold for one hit since you usually change lofts for each subsequent hit. Since you are only using finger-tight pressure, repeated hits such as at a practice range will loosen the lever so you should check and retighten it after each shot while on the range. Lubricate the nut and washer between uses.

LEVER ALIGNMENT: The lever is factory-aligned so that when tight, it is approximately parallel to, or slightly in front of the face of the club. It is not supposed to align with the shaft which varies with the loft positions. After you use the club for a while and the transmission and threads break in, the parts fit closer and closer together, and the lever alignment will progress beyond parallel. You will want to re-set the lever as follows: 1) Unscrew the lever one turn which will open up a little gap between the hosel and the lever so you can fit a screw-driver or knife-edge (as shown). 2) Pry the lever about half-way off. 3) With the lever still partly on the nut, screw it back to a snug position. 4) Pull the lever off the rest of the way by wiggling it back and forth. 5) Push it back on, realigned parallel to the face, or pointing slightly forward of the face. In most cases, depending on how much you use your club, you will need to realign the lever more than once as the metal "polishes" and fits closer and closer together.

WASHING & LUBRICATION: Periodically, unscrew the locking lever and separate the transmission. Rinse off the parts with soap and water. Let them dry completely. Lubricate all the moving parts with any light oil or spray. The custom grips allow you to wash them with soap and water to maintain the tacky feel. Be careful not to get water inside the shaft sections. HINT: Sometimes you may notice the lever sticking and being difficult to loosen while playing. This is a sign that it needs to be cleaned and lubricated. However, this is not easy to do while playing. Be very careful not to take the club apart over grass or any place where you can lose the parts. However, if it is sticking, you may want to unscrew the lever and put some lubrication over the threads and against the face of the nut where it meets the spring washer. We have used chap stick, vasalene, sun-tan lotion or any other type of lubricant that is available. That works great until you can get back home where you can wash and lubricate it with oil.

PARTS AND ASSEMBLY: There are six parts to the head assembly as shown below. The Ring Gear will only fit onto the head with the teeth meshing one way. The teeth on the other side of the ring gear mesh with the teeth inside the Hosel. Please notice that the spring washer fits with the edges bent "toward" the hosel. The lever is formed like a tight-fitting "socket wrench" to allow it to be adjusted as described above. It simply "presses" tightly onto the nut.

LIE ANGLE: You will notice that the toe of the DIVNICK™ is up a little for your full-length shots and the heel is up when putting. This is because of the 64-degree lie angle which is an average of irons and putter.

DRIVING: The main aspect of a driver which yields distance is its length which translates into club-head speed at the point of impact. Therefore, assuming optimum swing timing and sweet-spot contact, it is impossible for the DIVNICK™ to drive the ball as far as a conventional driver because it is not as long, as discussed in the Disadvantages section. But because it's the same length for every swing, many golfers will be able to "groove" their swing and might find that their drives are more consistently down the middle of the fairway with longer average distance. Because the 38" DIVNICK™ is the length of a 4 iron, you will get maximum length performance out of the 3 or 4 iron setting, not the driver. Given the physics of the shaft, the "D" position will not hit the ball farther, only lower, and it will be very difficult to get the ball up. Tee the ball as you would for an iron tee shot regardless of the loft selection.

Since the 38" DIVNICK™ is the length of a conventional 4-iron, when set to lofts above that, it will hit the ball farther than normal. This allows you to go to a steeper loft which will result in a higher trajectory and allow the ball to stop or back up more effectively, or you can choke down on the grip and simulate your club's lengths if you wish.

PUTTING: The other extreme, in terms of club-length and head shape, is putting. To approximate your normal putting stance, we simply suggest that you "choke down" on the grip, perhaps with your right hand down on the shaft a little. Use the two white sighting lines for assistance in alignment.

TELESCOPIC DRIVER AND PUTTER: Since the driver and putter are the two extremes of length, head shape and weight, if you want to carry those clubs but require portability for travel and convenience, please contact us about our custom collapsible drivers and putters. Click here for telescopic driver and putter options and pictures.

IF THE CLUB IS WET from rain or washing, towel-dry it and spray some lubricant on the internal parts including into the loosened shaft joints and store it in a LOOSENED position.

SHAFT LENGTHS: We produce two standard lengths: The 38" and the 37" which is recommended for players less than 5'8" tall. After addressing the ball and taking a few swings, if you wish you had the other length, you may send your shaft back to us and ask for the other length. This offer presumes that the shaft and hosel socket is not scratched or otherwise unfit for resale.

REPLACEMENT PARTS: If you ever need any replacement parts, please call. If you need to replace the nut, it is a 5/16 x 24 thread grade 8 nut which you can find in most hardware stores. If you keep it lubricated, it will last permanently.

LIFETIME WARRANTEE
Your absolute satisfaction is guaranteed. You may return your DIVNICK™ for any reason at any time. The DIVNICK™ also carries a lifetime warrantee against breakage. If it ever breaks, we'll fix it. No charge.

CONTACT INFORMATION:
Divnick International, Inc.
321 Alexandersville Road
Miamisburg, OH 45342
Appointment Only
Voice: 937-384-0003
Fax: 937-384-0004

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